Sunday, 24 February 2013

LAOS


My first stop in Laos was going to be The 4000 Islands; this beguiling archipelago of islets is said to be the emerald jewel near the end of the Mekong Delta. The river is almost perfect with thousands of sandbars and betel and sugar palm trees. Buffalo's cooling down in the river and tourists ‘tubing’ on river while sipping a beer. In the evening the waters are dotted with lights from fishing boats and the lit up restaurants along the river. In some parts the music takes over the tranquil sound of the cicadas
My bus ticket incl the border crossing and drop off at the boat to Don Det. All went all very smoothly till I tripped over my own legs and fell which resulted in some open wounds on my left leg. Not a great start for Laos but it only could get better and it did. I settled for a peaceful place near the French Bridge near Don Khon and had a little wooden hut with my own facilities. There I lounged in my hammock for two days as my leg had to heal anyway till I was greeted with "hi neighbour" and a friendly Yankee moved in next door. He got me out of my hammock and the next day we explored on bikes the Liphi Waterfalls and Don Khon followed by a boat-tuktuk-boat trip to the Koh Phaphen Falls with sunset on the lake. It was great to have like minded company for a couple of days and share life and travel stories. We said our goodbyes in Pakse as that was my next destination and for him the start of his return trip back home to China.
Sunset Boulevard in Don Det

4000 Islands....


Cycle map...

Hi neighbour



View from hut
Add caption

My little hut


Boen Yeak Laom lake


I had 3 more days left which I spend exploring the area on a scooter, this was the first time I was the driver and not the passenger and I can’t believe I never tried this before as it gives you the freedom to see a lot more in less time than on a bike. Every day I went to the Boen Yeak Laom a clear blue crater lake for a swim and cooling down. This lake is one of the few natural, un spoiled lakes in Cambodia surrounded by dark-green jungle so there are no buildings around the lake or restaurants to spoil the view. It is a sacred place for the locals who have a lot of fun jumping into the lake (fully dressed)  laugh and scream while they push each other into the water. They are very friendly and like to talk to you while sitting at the wooden stairs to enter the water.



Saturday, 23 February 2013

Trekking in Virachey National Park / Cambodia


Two days trekking in Virachey National Park

The main reason to make the trip to Ban Lung is to visit the Virachey National Park for a day trip or a couple of days ‘jungle trip’. The park is a big forest with minority people still living there under very basic circumstances, beautiful lakes and waterfalls and some wild life. Ban Lung is known for its rusty colour earth also known by the locals as ‘dey krahorm’. It looks very similar like the North of Australia but a lot flatter.
So I booked myself on a 2 day (1 night in the jungle) trip with DutchCo (www.ecotourismcambodia.info) which as you probably would expect is run by a Dutch couple Rik and Ivonne.  At 7.30am I met the rest of the group and our guide Sotum (his tourist name is Johnny) for breakfast at their office/cafĂ© and we received our small backpack for the two days including hammock. With all my needed belongings in the backpack and 2 liters of water we were seated in the pick-up truck. After half an hours bumpy ride outside Ban Lung we arrived in a very ‘red coated’ village called Kalai for the start of our trek. We were met by our Park Ranger called Coem and I instantly fell in love with this guy with his big cheeky eyes and of course big smile.  He lives in the village and the next day we would have lunch at his place to see how the locals live.  Coem was dressed in clothes who (in my eyes) were in need of some alterations and a wash but most of us would put them in the bin! He was wearing a baseball cap, flip flops and most importantly carrying his big parang knife, later on I found out this was used for many different purposes. We set off at 10am,  it was already baking hot with hardly any shade so the walk was hard due to the heat but the landscape was beautiful with lots of big trees, ‘dry’ rice paddies, lots of bamboo trees and some small lakes. For lunch we stopped somewhere in the forest and we all received a lovely banana leave filled with fried rice to give us more energy for the rest of the trip. Coem our ranger is not someone who can sit still for long so he went into the forest and we could hear noises - if he was cutting half of the forest with his Parang knife- . Sotum said he’s preparing shot cups for our whiskey tonight! As I wanted to see how he was making these I went over to see him and indeed 3 little cups were already finished.  Later that evening I’ve learned that
they are very useful for drinking whiskey indeed. Around 3pm we arrived at our ‘campsite’ which was a small area with a mini lake and a bamboo frame for our hammocks. The first thing I did was jump into the cold water to cool down and wash all the dust from me and my clothes. Coem and Sotun started setting up the camp incl. a small fire and we just had to sit and relax. Our hammocks got unpacked and placed in a neat row in so we would be safe and comfortable next to each other that night. As it gets dark around 6pm we had an early dinner to enjoy it while it still was light. We got fried rice with beef and vegetable and as a treat some fish from the river which Coem caught with his basic rod!
So at 7pm we were sitting in the dark with full stomachs and waiting to go to bed, we ‘killed’ the time by chatting, drinking whiskey and playing games but by 10pm we were all tucked up in our hammock for the night. Surprisingly I had a very good night as the hammock was very comfortable.
The next morning after breakfast we left the camp for our walk back which seemed to be much harder than the day before, we had lunch at Coem’s house which I would call a sheltered accommodation for animals and humans. It was one big room ( I still don’t know where they were sleeping) with a fire in the corner, bare floors and some tree trunks for furniture,  pigs, chicken, dogs and cats running around the place or chasing each other and looking for food.
After lunch we reached the village within half an hour and a truck took us back to Ban Lung for the end of the trip.

My lunch box

The views


Campsite Lake

The sleeping arrangements

Fresh fish for breakfast

Team Virachey!






Friday, 8 February 2013

Travels after Seam Reap


After almost 3 weeks in Siem Reap it was time to leave and continue my travels. Early morning (7a) I entered a very old bus to take me to the East side of Cambodia called Kratie or Kracheh. For the next 5 hours I passed the lovely Cambodian country-side I was so used to by now with houses on stilts some of them colorful some barely finished. The cows, buffalo’s, dogs, cats, chicken and pigs which are walking freely in the ‘garden’.  You’ll see children playing in the surrounding or helping their parents on the fields. It always gives me a warm and happy feeling to see this homely country life. Usually the women are working on the fields or selling food (bread, noodle dishes, fish, vegetable) some of them have a clothes ‘stall’ or sell sugar cane juice in little bags with crushed ice (delicious). Or they are busy with the house work or go to the market on the moto and return with many bags of goods. The men usually take it easy and hang out on a street corner with their moto and try to get some ‘business’ to transport people or animals on their moto, or they drink tea in a little stall or have a nap at the cabana under their house. And the children well they are children and are busy playing or waiving at busses and shouting probably HELLO. So while the loud music and dvd is playing in the bus I’m watching the world go by and enjoy the Cambodian life while listening to my own music. Half way we arrive at our crossing point which is Kampung Cham from there a bus will take me to Kratie which is another 4 hours. We are waiting for a bus which comes from Phnom Penh and is due to arrive in 20 minutes, after 45 minutes waiting I get the feeling it could be a long wait but there’s nothing you can do. So after 2 hours the bus finally arrives, this one is even older but I’m lucky to have two seats this time to stretch and relax. So I put my music on again and stare outside the window and can see the landscape change to more remote country-side with more trees, hills and a lot of red dust. The sun sets so it gets dark and that means really dark as there aren’t many street lights. Finally at 8.30pm and 13 hrs of travel later I arrived at my hostel. Unfortunately, they only have room for 1 night but the only thing I want now is a shower followed by a meal. Well I got both in the next couple of hours but then when I wanted to go to bed there was no electricity in my room. In the end they couldn’t fix it that night so I slept in the dark and my fan worked with an extension lead to the other room.

The next day after I’ve changed to a hostel next door I went on my bike to explore Kratie which is actually a very small village on the Mekong Delta river but nothing much else. I decided to do cycling trip the next day to the island to see how the locals live.  My new travel companion the Italian version of (long hair) Brad this time set off on our ‘mountain’ bikes at 8am in the morning with some food and a map. We crossed the river by ferry and started cycling after we enjoyed our breakfast; noodle soup with beef (??) at a small stall run by a mother and her family. We were joined by many locals trying to have a chat with us or finding out what we were doing on the Island. We started cycling along the Mekong Delta viewing the local life which is very similar as the one on the mainland and were greeted by the friendly locals – mainly children – who wanted to chat or touch these ‘white people’. The Italian Brangelina were halted or invited many times to talk to the locals, we met a couple of women and their children who were making candy in a big hot pot. If I understand them correctly this was something similar as toffees. Most of the time after hello or how are you? the conversation halted as they didn’t understand our answers but a big smile does wonders. At some point we had a rest and a lady with her 2 year old granddaughter joined us while we had some pine-apple and sandwich. She kept on talking and making faces but we had no idea what she was talking about. I think she was impressed that we were cycling and she was trying to tell us that we would be sore at certain parts of our body later o!  I said at least 1000 times hello to the children who came out of their houses or from the field to see us but every time I gave them a big smile and waved as it made me so happy and I wanted to give them my full attention. We stopped many times time to talk to them or just giggled as we all were lost for words. At some point we were surrounded by at least 15 children who started copying what I was saying in English.  It all ended with a mini lesson in English. Some of them were very clever and could count till 20 and repeat the alphabet within 10 minutes. I also taught them the head, shoulders, knees and toes rhyme which they were able to sing in the end. All very endearing and I was surprised that it was so easy to get their attention and teach things. It was hard to leave as we could have continued for a long time. Italian Brad said that I I should explore these skills as it was obvious we both loved (the children and me) it.
We continued cycling but soon we stopped again to have a drink at a stall which was run by 2 lovely teenage girls, we started chatting and soon more kids arrived to see what was happening. We continued our trip and tried to find a crossing with a boat to take us back to the mainland. When we arrived there the boat wasn’t due to leave for at least half an hour so we waited on the boat. While we waited some more people arrived; a guy on a bike with a chicken (still alive) hanging from the bikes handle bars,  another on a bike with a small net with a couple of chicks on his handle bars. Finally someone arrived on a scooter which was totally overloaded and he was struggling to keep his scooter in control.  He had to board the boat but I wasn’t sure how he was going to do that. A couple of men helped him to push his scooter up the ramp, after a couple of attempts he got on the ramp but fell to the left and everything came off his scooter including him!
So all had to be dragged onto the boat – which then left – and to my surprise he started rebuilding his scooter and all the ‘junk’ that had to get on the back of it. He managed and got off the boat without any falls or losing his baggage.

Sugar cane juice in a bag

Mekong Delta view

Our ferry to the other side

Final stop in Cambodia....


Next day I took a mini-van to Ban Lung which is near the Laos border and my last stop in Cambodia. I decided to take the mini-van as I was told this was just a 14 seater which would drive without any stops or pick-ups to its destination in roughly 4 hours. The big bus would take 6 hours and many more stops so for the 3$usd extra I wanted some more comfort (famous last words). They even tried to sell me the front seat next to the driver for 15 USD$ so I had more space but I had a feeling that this never would happen so opted for the seat in the back. Of course this wasn’t the relaxed, aircon bus trip as sold to me as I’ve seen many mini van’s before in this country. We left with 15 adults and our luggage stuffed under the seats so you had to put your feet/legs on top of it, after half an hour 2 locals were added with their big bags. Later we stopped again and I could see a family of 6 adults and 3 children and their rice bags……………… yes indeed they all did enter the minivan so we were in the end with 23 adults and 3 children in that van! It was hot , smelly and I was lucky just to share the 2 seater with another (skinny) girl as the locals had more the 2 for 1 deal in the front. The driver decided it had to end there so no more additions till the rest of the journey, 4,5 hrs later I arrived at Ban Lung and half an hour later I was enjoying the view and lunch at Treetop Lodge which is a real treat after this journey.

View from Treetop Lodge

crowded bus

Treetop lodge