Sunday, 16 June 2013

Dropbox links to pictures of my travel adventures!

Below a couple of links to my dropbox account with photo albums of various adventures of my last 7 months of traveling...............


Elephants
In Laos I did a three day Elephant mahout training with my lovely elephant Sophie...
www.dropbox.com/sh/7ssr1rqr0f1q7ky/8ztqjsBA2o

Orphanage
In Cambodia I helped out at an orphange for 3 weeks as a volunteer to entertain the children and teach them some basic English. It was a great experience and the children are just amazing...
www.dropbox.com/sh/be6udh6mw81wcqw/tOLYqx1dNp


Gunung BROMO
This mountain has always been one of Indonesian most breath-taking sights, Bromo is the Javanese translation for Hindu God of creation.
The volcano is still active which its last eruption in 2011 and its expected to continue for some time to come. I climbed this to view the sunrise followed by a motorbike trip to the viewpoint to see Bromo (through thick clouds).
www.dropbox.com/sc/pnv0hcw5znejj8k/140VVH2IxV

GUNUNG BATUR
This is one of the volcanoes in Bali which you can climb and to get the best views it is suggested to do this by sunrise. However if the clouds are taking over the view you will see the following:www.dropbox.com/sc/x695fn6qqzejady/ZXqH1ZBH1H

TEGAL
I went to my dad’s birthplace in Java/Indonesia to see where my roots come from. It was an emotional but exciting experience but also recognizable for myself and my dads background. I planted a small bush in the communial park to remember him, I was welcomed by the locals with their big smiles and inquizivative personality. When I left I felt a bit sad as it was saying goodbye to family. The pictures show views from the town and my meeting with the locals (mainly kids) and a daytrip in the area with views Gunung Slemat.
 www.dropbox.com/sc/5n4xoqrw0eyz73h/N7iq1Ww4t2

UBUD ceremony
In Ubud/Bali I stayed at a lovey homestay and the family was very welcoming.
The mother of the owner (Nyoman) passed away two weeks prior to my visit and as a tradition a ceremony should take place to purify the house with her and evil spirits before the divine powers are addressed. This is done by offerings, holy water and hand gestures. The pictures give a view of the ceremony, the monkey forest sanctuary and Ubud surroundings like rice paddies and temples.
 www.dropbox.com/sc/b5pxbv4ytnqk53m/92RmO1qqbm

Gili Air: 
This is one of the Gili Islands between Bali and Lombok. The Island is beautiful with white beaches and blue water. The corals, snorkling and diving must have been amazing ten years ago as I only spotted dead coral along the beaches. A lot of dead coral ends up on the beach but gets recycled for buildings (kind of pebbledash), decorations; key holders, curtains or in the gardens.
You can view the pictures from the Island:
www.dropbox.com/sc/r1a3ikqrbmdehao/9v2sDau0PA


Ubud

In Ubud I stayed in a homestay with a lovely family.  Here you could see a traditional Balinese family who lives together in a house with its own temple. The buildings are in a beautiful Balinese style with colourful painted doors and the walls have typical Balinese carvings in the outside walls. There is an entrance to an outdoor temple which is used for ceremonies and I as lucky to experience one when I stayed there.
The mother of the owner (Nyoman) passed away two weeks prior to my visit and as a tradition a ceremony should take place to purify the house with her and evil spirits before the divine powers are addressed. This is done by offerings, holy water and hand gestures. Prior to the day of the ceremony the family members were busy with preparations which mainly is making offerings from coconut leaves, these would vary from small square boxes to umbrella shaped versions with creative sized attachments to house the offerings (rice, flowers, sweets). The whole family including the young girls were busy with this.
On the day of the ceremony I was woken up by females singing / chanting and when I looked outside my window they were in the temple area, than walked around the whole building complex from offering area to offering area. This was to connect with the spirits and greet them, one female would put some flowers at the area and sprinkle some alcohol on it too. The smell of the incense has the purpose to make you feel happy, this works for both for the spirits and for us.
The offering area was a big cross shaped pile of flowers, coconut leaf offerings which were filled with flowers, food and as my hosts explained it has a meaning: NORTH facing is associated with the color red and the highest hierarchy which is the duck with number 88 SOUTH; black and has the lowest level the dog with number 8, WEST; is the color yellow with and EAST; is the colour white with the chicken. Each area had a coconut decorated with the colour and the years in Chinese coins.
I’ve met the dog Bobo who was a young puppy and was killed that morning to be offered to the gods as it would re-incarnate as a human.
The process of the women went on for a while till they felt the spirits were satisfied and by waving the incense smoke upwards they were guiding the spirits out of the house. The final was a procession of loud noise and chanting to finally ‘clear’ the offering areas and literality brushing the spirits away with a brush and a bunch of burning incense. Suddenly, everyone started clearing the offering areas and the coconut leaf and flowers were all put into bags for burning at the sea. Within 10 minutes the place looked tidy and the next stage would start which as that the priest would go round and give his blessing to the whole area and finish at the temple where a praying ceremony would take place. All family members gathered into the temple as they had to be ‘cleaned’ too with water and rice and when this was done the ceremony was finished and we enjoyed a traditional Balinese meal of rice, jackfruit curry, chicken and pork packages of banana leaves.
The cremation would take place in September with another family member that passed away so till then the bodies are kept in a special place till the ceremony in the sea.

I found the whole process very fascination as I could see that this is a tradition and people are following it out of respect of the spirits. It is beautiful but nothing different than other religions where people follow the founder or foundation of this religion but here it feels that is has emotions and comes from the heart without forcing outstanders to join or follow. As Nyoman (guesthouse owner) said; we are open and liberate so please join the ceremony as it is my pleasure to have you here.

In Bali they call their children the same in the following order: Child no 1; Wayan or Putu, No 2: Made or Kadet,  no3: Nyoman or Komang,  no 4 Ketut and with no 5 you start again at no 1; etc. Usually one is also given another name to identify themselves too.

The pictures give a view of the ceremony, the monkey forest sanctuary and Ubud surroundings like rice paddies and temples.

 www.dropbox.com/sc/b5pxbv4ytnqk53m/92RmO1qqbm

The offerings


The lovely Nyoman Murjana family

Tuesday, 4 June 2013

Borobudur and Prambanan


Borobudur and Prambanan
One of the main sites you need to visit in Java is the breath taking temple complex of Borobudur (www.borobudurpark.co.id) with its Buddhist temples which were recovered by Sir R. Raffles in 1814 but the complex is dated from the 9th century AD.
Also this temple was suggested to witness at sunrise with the mist hanging from the lush valleys and hills. So at 4am I set off with The Three Musketeers (Dutch, French and Finnish guys) on our motorbikes with Rita a local girl to travel to Punthurk Setumba hill to view the misty hills of the Borobudur surroundings. We arrived there at 5am and had a stunning view of the volcano Merapi, the Borobudur and the misty valley. We rushed back to our motorbikes to the Borobudur park as we wanted to enter this at 6am to have the privilege to see it before it opens to everyone (locals) at 6.30am
The rush was worth it as there were maybe only 50 people at this massive site so the views were almost untouched and amazing with the sun coming up from the hills. As suggested by other travellers I took my pics and started descending level by level to reach the bottom just in time for the crowds. And with this I mean the locals or students who approach you to speak English or take pictures with you. Usually I am happy to spend time with them and pose for the camera but this time I just wanted to be a tourist and enjoy the surroundings in peace so I told him “tidak, terima kasha” (no thank you).
I was enjoying my own time while I could see other tourist chatting to the students with a bit of desperation in their eyes as they were on a tour and only had 1 hr so spend at the Borobudur..
After a local breakfast with “soto ayam” (chicken, noodle soup) we climbed back onto our bikes and travelled for another 2 hrs to our next destination Prambanan, this Hindu temple complex features 50 temples which many of them suffered extensive damage in the 2006 earthquake. Some of the temples are still fenced off or you have to wear a helmet to enter it due to construction work. I must say even if this site was smaller it was far more impressive than The Borobudur and my favourite for that day. This was followed by a local lunch this time we tried the “guluh” which turned out to be a delicious beef stew with some rice. The Three Musketeers and I left Rita to return to Yogyakarta while we explored the country side on 2 bikes for a couple of hours before returning to the big smoke later that evening.
I was planning to climb Mount Merapi the next morning (1am start) but realized that this would be a bit challenging as this would mean leave Yogya at 10pm that evening. There is always something left to do for next time…………….

BROMO https://www.dropbox.com/sc/pnv0hcw5znejj8k/140VVH2IxV
GUNUNG BATUR: https://www.dropbox.com/sc/x695fn6qqzejady/ZXqH1ZBH1H


Sunrise with views of Merapi, Borobudur and hills

Borobudur

Full size Borobudur

Prambanan


Going back to my roots; the visit.

After great time and experiences in Sumatra I made my way by plane to Java; the next destination on my Indonesia trip. This island feels even more special to me as my dad was born in a coastal village called Tegal on this Island so I was even more curious if I would feel more at home here or drawn to this islands culture than Sumatra.
I was planning to visit my dad’s birth place not for its scenery but for its sentimental value and so the search began. I arrived in Yogyakarta to arrange my visa (read other post for the ins and outs) and visit the surrounding sites like Borobudur and Prambanan.
After almost a week in Java I took the train to head for Tegal in Central Java, after a taxi ride followed by 2 hrs bus trip I arrived at Solo Jebres Station where the train would leave. I had a couple of hours to kill so had a delicious street meal lunch and took some snacks with me for the 5 hrs train ride. It was obvious that Teemu and I were the only tourist waiting for the train but when we entered our carriage all heads turned our way and that never changed during the trip. There’s lots of entertainment in the train as locals walk up and down the aisle to sell, kopi, teh, tempeh, kroepuk, nasi, air, (coffee, tea, tempeh, crisps, rice and water) but also t-shirts, belts and survival sewing repair kits. The train conductor asked several times if we really were travelling to Tegal as it’s not a tourist destination at all. So when we almost entered the station he came over and sat with us to make sure we got off at Tegals station. After some commotion at the train station with police, becek- and taxi drivers we got to a hotel after a long day.
The next three days Tegal was our home to explore the surroundings and for me to find the earliest beginning of my dad’s and mine roots. Tegal is a coastal and business town so not much to see and no reason for a tourist to stop here hence the looks from the locals when you’re walking around. Many people come over to chat or ask for a photograph with us. The level of English is very poor so we had to up our Bahasa Indonesia and the app on our phone made overtime to help us to find our way. The first day we walked around to take in the surroundings and I planted a little tree for my dad in the local park, this again doesn’t get unnoticed so some kids and locals came over to see what was happening. I do hope that the tree will grow and who knows I will visit it again.
I’m leaving Tegal with a feeling of leaving my family, the locals here were so welcoming and nice even without being able to communicate much. Maybe it was my imagination but lots of older men looked like my dad or had similar features so this was really the start of his roots. These men had similar looks, body posture or laughs, worked in the gardens, cycled or were inquisitive just as he was. Many times men came over to see what these Westerners were doing or were just ‘hanging around us’ to see if they could have a chat or help us even with the language barrier.
We experienced priceless moments as communication was difficult but when entering a shop everyone just came over to find out what we wanted while giggling and trying to understand what we were doing. The most precious one was the older lady who helped me t plant my dad’s tree, I was struggling to make a hole in the soil but she just took a stick and ‘digged’ one within 5 minutes. We couldn’t really talk but she knew this was something special for me and she hugged me afterwards and smiled. When we left Tegal I said goodbye to her and she gave me the biggest and warmest hug which made me cry as it felt I said goodbye to a family member. I am pleased that I made the effort to travel to my dad’s birthplace and mingle for a couple of days in a non- tourist environment. Maybe it gives me a more in depth idea where I come from but maybe not. Whatever it turns out it is something what I will take with me for the rest of my life. Thank you Teemu to join and support me during this emotional trip.

More photo’s from my Tegal trip: https://www.dropbox.com/sc/5n4xoqrw0eyz73h/N7iq1Ww4t2


tree planting with lovely lady

The tree..

Local kids playing with their doves


"head, shoulders, knees.....



My Indonesian visa saga


Sometimes being organized doesn’t pay off the result you were expecting as this happened to me with my Indonesian Visa. As lovely as the country is and the people are genuine, helpful and happy the authorities are the complete opposite.
By entering the country you will only receive a tourist visa which is valid for one month and can be extended only once for a month. There were many stories going round on the web that visa are a pain in the neck and could cost you days of your trip so I decided to organise the 60 days in advance. This should be possible at foreign Indonesian Embassy with some effort (forms) but at least I could enjoy my 60 days without spending time at an Immigration office. How wrong could I be; with a lot of sweat and effort I was able to apply for a visa in Manila at the Indonesian Embassy. Only when I went through a 2hr chores to get the correct forms and payment arranged I was told that they couldn’t confirm that it would be granted a 60 days visa but at least a 30 days which I could extent during my trip. So when I collected my passport 5 days later I was (of course) very disappointed to see that it was only for 30 days. What a waste of my 2 afternoons as I could have arranged this when entering the country. 
So I parked this while traveling in The Philippines and my first 2 weeks in Indonesia but when I arrived in Yogyakarta this was the first thing on my mind to arrange. So on Friday morning I went with all the required papers to the immigration office with my travel companion who needed to do the same but I came out of the office ‘empty handed’ and very disappointed and deflated as I was told that Manila had granted me a social visa which you usually get when you want to stay for max 6 months and requires a local sponsor! I was gobsmacked as how was this possible without having a sponsor in the 1st place? I got 2 forms to be filled in by ‘the sponsor’ and could return on Monday to apply for the extension. That day I spend gathering information and looking for a sponsor but was put out of my misery by the very kind and extremely helpful guesthouse owner Tanto who called his ‘friend’ at the immigration office. The only legal way to get this sorted was to leave the country at the end of my month and enter it again to receive that well needed tourist visa which could be extended for another month. He told me that even after 20 years his German wife has many issues to extend her visa for the next five years! I was so sad, disappointed and angry that I really had to take a moment and reflect on this for the rest of the day. It felt I was betrayed by a country close to my heart (especially Java where my roots come from) but I knew I had to keep emotions and practicalities separate as the country is a paradise and the people are amazing.
I didn’t want to support or contribute to the corrupt system so trying to find a way to deal with this social visa was not going anywhere.
This meant that at the end of the 30 days I have to fly for the day to Kuala Lumpur and back to Indonesia to receive a new visa.
This was a hard lesson to learn about the Indonesian authorities and not to try to arrange to many things for my trip in advance as you never can be sure what’s around the corner or what challenge is waiting for you.

Monday, 3 June 2013

Two day Jungle trip into Taman National Gunung Leuser Park

So far I’ve done jungle treks in different countries during my trip but this one was the most exhausting and intriguing one. This jungle felt like a real jungle even if we didn’t get that ‘deep’ into the jungle for the 2 day trip. The aim was to see wildlife like Oerang Utangs, Thomas sleep monkeys, Gibbons (white and black), macaque . So I went with guide Sinar and 5 other travellers into the jungle with a small backpack and our camera’s. We started with a steep climb to enter the jungle, regularly Sinar showed us some flora like rattan, cinnamon, lemon grass or other useful plants for medication. Meanwhile we climbed or walked and he kept us entertained but we were all waiting for that moment to see our first Oerang Utang which we finally did and it was Suma with her baby.  Sinar told us that she was raised in the monkey sanctuary after she was released from a captured life with soldiers. Sinar used to work with Oerang Utangs so he knows most of them and their habits. So Suma came down from her tree and ‘posed’ for us hoping to get some food but one of rules is not to feed them anymore as they learned in the sanctuary to life an independent life. Later on we spotted Sandra in a tree and when we reached camp Jacky and her baby were there to give us some extra Oerang Utang camera shots. The camp was based on the other side of the river which we had to cross by swimming or with a tube. The camp was a patch on a corner of the river with lots of stones and some huts (kitchen and sleeping area) and our base for the night. We enjoyed a lovely Indonesian meal of vegetable curry, marinated chicken, rice, tempeh and kroepoek followed by lots of fruit, ginger tea and later on roasted peanuts. Our guide Sinar and his friend entertained us with some magician card games and he knew a lot of mind games with some matches. At 9pm he said it was time to go to bed so we all went to our hut (an area covered with plastic walls and roof) where we were positioned in a row on the floor with a sheet to cover our bodies. I slept really well and got up at 6.30am to have a tea and chat with Sinar outside and enjoy the beautiful views of the jungle.  Before we left the next day on a raft down the river we visited a waterfall on the other side of the river and had a swim followed by lunch. The journey down the river was fun but too short and not enough current to make it really exciting. 
Sinar, thank you for a great trip and showing me the Oerang Utans in their natural environment and entertaining me with your big smile and stories.

Suma



Thomas Leaf Monkey