Sunday, 11 November 2012

I've arrived in Burma



4 days in Burma and I’m now fully into the backpackers experience and this country.

My journey from London to Yangon was via Singapore, I had a fantastic flight with Singapore Airlines which provides the best service so far in my eyes. I was disappointed that the 12 hour flight was over. After that 3 hour wait at Singapore Airport which has all the luxury and an aircon environment. Then a 2,5 hours flight to Yangon which I spend sleeping as I was so tired from my trip and missing a proper sleep.
When I arrived at the airport – which looked very modern and very organize) a young man wearing his longyi was waiting for me with a sign with my name so I felt very welcome and pleased that there was someone waiting for me. When we came out of the exit and I felt the warm, sticky air I got tear in my eyes as it felt that this was the real start of my adventure and it was beautiful to start it here.
The taxi ride was half an hour but I think that driving in Paris on the Champ Elysees would be a piece of cake if you compare it with this; old cars, trucks, buses, bikes, motorbikes, families on a converted bike with seats and the fast moving  pedestrians. All cars blowing their horns as pedestrians just cross the road when they feel like it.
My arrival at the hotel was a bit of a shock, it’s in a street that I naturally would avoid but the welcome from the staff makes you feel better and they speak English.
That evening I’ve found many other travels (English, Dutch and Australian) and we chatted till late outside drinking Mandalay-en beer and exchanging travel tips and options. The next they we decided to take the circular local train around Yangon, this was an amazing experience as we were almost the only tourist amongst the locals who bring shiploads of stuff into the train, eat and prepare food in the carriage and look at us as if we are Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt! But as soon as you smile they will return this with a bigger one and if possible they will come over to have a conversation with you in English. Many times a youngster was pushed into our direction as they speak our language and have to translate. The children are so cute and most of the time dressed up like princesses or fairies so it’s impossible not to snap away to capture these impressions. We hopped to different carriages to meet new locals and got off at a local market. The colours, smells and food were amazing and again we were the odd ones out walking around with our cameras and people were asking us to take a picture of them (specially the kids).

In the evening I walked around the city centre which is very much run down with some upcoming modern shops but the buildings (many of them were left by the English) are in need of some work and could host 4 star hotels in the future. Most street are full of people selling their goods which vary from food or electronic devices, clothes and furniture (a bit like Walthamstow market). I drank tea at one of the many tea houses but that sounds too posh for what it is; sitting outside on the pavement on little plastic stools with a big pot of tea (kind of builders one) and then soaking up the company and the city vibes.
The next morning I’ve visited the SchwedagonPaya which is an impressive golden pyramid with many buddah’s and places to pray. It was a Sunday so many locals were there to pray or bring offers for their loved ones to Buddah.

I’m now traveling with one other Dutchie to explore the rest of this beautiful but challenging country. It is a lot easier to travel in pairs as you just have to take it day by day in this country. They are very happy that the country has now opened their borders and everyone is ‘free’ as they say and feel it too. This means that people are able to be an entrepreneur and make some money and not the government. In my opinion this is a struggle for them as the infrastructure isn’t there yet and most of them don’t know yet what tourist want or need. So far I’ve noticed that the country is swamped by tourists but there aren’t enough places to stay or to get them from A-B.  Most of the travellers came just like me here with the idea to book and arrange trips as you go but it’s proven that it would have been easier to arrange most of it in advance. On the other hand being a traveller with not a set time to get back home you can adjust your ideas or route and that’s what I’m doing at the moment.  The Dutchies are now in Bago which was a 2 hour bus ride from Yangon with locals in the afternoon in an aircon bus but aircon is not what we expect from an aircon bus so you come out soaking wet and dusty from the open windows.  Then a 6 person tuk-tuk will take you with your luggage to your hotel and there are always people to help you with this. Your first reaction is that they want to hassle you or just want your money but the majority are kind and genuine so you have to step back and take that all in.
Tomorrow we are planning  a 4 hour journey by taxi, truck and then walk up to the Golden Rocks at Kyaikto  leaving at 5am as you want to be back before it gets too hot.
My travel companion became ill last night so we couldn’t go today  but that means we both can get some rest and make some travel arrangements.

Food and hygiene: till now I’ve been lucky not to get ill or feel effected by the weather. My diet is very basic and I’mkeeping it to a minimum so that helps too. I’m still eating my cereal bars and only have fruit with a skin. Drink lots of water and no alcohol so that’s been very successful till now. There’s lots of street food around but I’m afraid to touch it as it’s all out in the open air with no refrigerator or covered by anything form the dust and city life.  It looks amazing but I’m sure my Western stomach won’t cope with it so I’m visiting the supermarkets to find something that looks familiar and safe. A shame but I’ve seen many people already been ill and I don’t want to end up like them.

The scenery is changing the more you enter the rural area, Yangon is a city so fairly civilized and I was able to find or get everything I wanted. Internet or wifi are there but not much or very slow. Now in Bago it’s already a different world where people live on the street. The few paved roads are busy and the noise is overwhelming from the motorbikes, cars and trucks blowing their horns and dogs barking to everything that moves.
Walking around this morning I felt again the odd one out as I was dressed in my Western clothes and look pale against these women in beautiful colourful clothes with tanned skin.
You see children swimming in the river and at the same time the man next to me on the bridge is throwing a bag of rubbish into that same river! Then I moved on to the local market which again is very colourful from the food which they try to sell to me and  I’m sorry I can’t so the only thing I’ve bought  is bananas for my sick companion. The old lady selling these to me shows me with her own money how much they are so I can pay her the correct amount. It’s moving to see how they adapt so quickly and invite you into their world which is very welcoming and I can’t wait to find out more about this. Walking back to my hotel again I had tears in my eyes as I feel so blessed to be here and see how other people live and how happy they are living their lives.  London feels already very far……….

We are heading North from Tuesday to the Inle lake for hiking, boat trip and floating market  then to Kakku with 2478 abandoned stupa’s (kind of minnarets) and then hoping to get to Bagan and Mandalay which are bigger cities which means that accommodation is fully booked or a challenge to get one.

Thwà-me-naw from Burma!

6 comments:

  1. Hello Angel! So good to hear you've arrived safely.

    It all sound so exciting!

    XX

    Franca

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  2. Hi Angel,

    glad you've arrived safe and sound :)

    Exciting times ahead.

    Sonia xx

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  3. Angel, what a great first entry! I felt like I was right there with you. It reminds me a lot of India - the noise, the mayhem, the primitive conditions, the hassling wrought up in niceness - brave you! And good that you're meeting other travellers too, always nicer to be exploring these regions with someone. I loved the description of you all coming across like Brad and Angelina to the locals! Hehe. Missing you lots already. Big hugs. Iqbal XXX

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  4. I was excited to read your account and am so glad you've found someone to travel with. We have Dutchies staying with us at our Pousada. They get everywhere ;-)

    Look forward to your nextpost.

    Johnny
    x

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  5. Great you arrived safe, hopefully you will find a way to share some pictures

    torben

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  6. Hey there! Good to know that everything is going fine :) You should post the links to your blog posts on facebook too, i wouldn't have any idea where to look if i hadn't visit your blog before :)
    Take care x
    Panos

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