Sapa is based in
the North of Vietnam which is perched on a steep slope overlooking a valley of
rice terraces with mountains overlooking the village. It’s usually colder,
wetter and foggier there then the rest of the country. The area is home for
many minorities who is still living their cultural life however many of the
younger generation doing get proper education and move out of the hill tribe to
explore other options than farm life in the hills. There are 7 minorities
in Sapa; H'mong black, H'mong
red, blue and flower, Day, Tay, Dao and during our 3 day home stay tour I
saw a couple of the different minorities.
We were met by our
guide for the trip Joe who is from the H'mong tribe. He wasn't dressed in
traditional clothing but more looked like a boy band member incl red/black
glittery cap.
After some faffing
around to sort out some money for the trip and picking up the other 3 members we
finally set off. And with we I mean guide Chao, Paul, me, Aussie family; Niary,
Stevie and Ray. Soon 4 H'mong tribe ladies joined us and decided to
accompany us to our home stay 8 km away.
So we started along
a busy road with beautiful mountain scenery, followed by off road bumpy lanes,
muddy hills and watery rivers. For lunch we stopped at an eatery near a bridge
and suddenly a lot of kids and more tribe ladies showed up to sell us, scarves,
silverware, bags, hats, bracelets and ivory combe’s. It was all a bit too much
as you couldn't move or talk to people. The next half hour the crowd tripled
and the tribe ladies quadrupled! We continued after lunch with a bigger following
of 5 ladies (they were from the Hn'ong tribe from our homestay village).
Personally I wasn't sure if I liked the crowd or not, they were very kind and
helpful but we all know what that meant; buying a gift later on.
On our way we past
children working on the field or collecting wood for the fire. After the final
up and down hill treks we've reached our home stay. This is a very simple place
from wood with concrete floors. The tribe ladies were indeed trying to sell
their stuff but only the Aussie family were topping up their Xmas
presents.
It was
only 3pm so still a long time till dinner. After a shower I walked
around and ended up at the local nursery. I watched the children sing and donated
some colouring pencils. After that I've watched a group of boys play with
wooden spinning tops and girls with marbles. A boy digged a hole into the
ground for a pee and he and his friend filled it up afterwards with some sand..
They seem to have
much fun and looking after their little siblings who were strapped on their
backs. It was nice seeing kids being kids and I was pleased I've experienced
unfortunately the authentic was wearing off during the day with the tribe
ladies using her mobile phone and my 10 yr old 'female' friends returning to my
home stay with their mum to sell me some bracelets!
The rest of the
afternoon we had some more 'visitors' at our home stay till we went inside.
We ate with the
family; mum, dad and son. They prepared; Vietnamese spring rolls (yummy), stir
fried veg with chicken or pork, rice, fish in bamboo sauce, runner beans and Happy
Water! The 'water' is homemade sake and quite strong but it helped me to get warm.
The rest of the evening we played cards, chatted and our guide Chao kept us
entertained. He's a married 22 yr old man with a child but in London I'm sure
he would have more fun on Old Compton Street.
By 9pm everyone
incl the family was tucked up in bed to stay warm and have a good rest for
tomorrow's walk.
Day 2; I woke up to
thick fog and chilly weather after a lovely pancake (Dutch style) breakfast, Aussie
family, guide Chao and I set off on our trip. This time without any tribe
ladies company, after two hour of gentle walking we reached a small authentic
village where we had a bowl of noodle soup. In the kitchen was a small fire
with a big pot preparing Happy Water (Ruoi Gao) it looks so easy just boil rice
long enough and the steam gets fermented into the juice.
Another hour later
we arrived at a valley with a bigger village which would be our home for the
night. We explored the village which was called Ban Ho and rested the rest
of the afternoon, followed by dinner in the kitchen and early night to stay
warm.
After
our cold adventure in Sapa we were looking for sun and the stunning views of
Halong Bay. Most of you seen the well-known pictures featured in magazines from
this bay so our expectations were high.
Unfortunately, the expectations weren’t reached maybe due to the 4 hour
journey long drive to Halong Bay Harbour from Hanoi, the cloudy and wet weather
and traveling for almost a week non-stop. I’m glad I’ve visited the Bay but it
won’t show up in my top 3 of destinations.
the H'mong ladies |
TEAM SAPA |
SAPA VALLEY |
DINNER |
HOME STAY DINNER |
KIDS BEING KIDS? |
STUNNING VIEWS |
angel, i'm laughing at loud at the thought of (a) the boyband-cap-wearing guide and then the tribal ladies quadrupling and trying to sell sell sell! I couldn't be doing with all that hard sell - it sounds like it was going on all through the stay. It's too much like India, it would put me right off. That's hilarious about Chao probably having more fun on Old Compton Street! Naughty girl ... by the way, those views are stunning - I wonder why you didn't think so?
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