North Luzon

Trip to North Luzon (Philippines) This is a vast expanse of misty mountains, the regions trophy piece is the central mountainous area known as Cordillera with their famous rice terraces in and around Banaue and Bontoc. The Hippi-esque Sagada has a few terraces but its main attractions are hiking, caving and the laid back ambience so it was time for me to check this part of the Philippines out. I left with a very comfortable bus (with Wifi) Manila to travel the 5 hours to Baguio which in my eyes is only worth the visit for an overnight stay to the Cordillera area. This is a university city with many shops, restaurants, faith healers, live music bars and a major air- noise pollution. I walked around in the Burnham park and visited the Orchidarium which is more a garden centre than Orchid farm. Later on I heard that the surrounding mountains are quite nice but I only passed them by bus on my way to Sagada. The next morning a 6 hour bus ride from Baguio to Sagada was on the agenda. On both sides of the road you could see green mountains due to the trees, vegetation, and terraces with vegetables, plants, flowers, rice beds or other crops. The road is called The Halsema Highway named after its founder who did a great job making this area more accessable with a concrete road and putting it on the tourist map. It was still a very bumpy ride with lots of curvy bends, going up and descending the mountains but it was worth every minute and by 15.00 we arrived in the hill side village of Sagada. This one road village has a very chilled, hippi-esque feeling with little shops where they sell their trade mark weaving products (mostly bags, purses and phone covers) or chill at one of the many places for a meal and in the evening Munshkin has live reggae music (only once a month so I was very fortunate) In my two days visit I went to the Echo Valley with the coffins hanging (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanging_coffins) on the mountain wall and I did the cave connection with a group of Israeliers. You enter the Sumaguing cave and walk, climb and wade through water to the Lumiang cave. It was a fun experience and the best cave for me as you had to work hard to get to the other end and meanwhile you could enjoy the cave formations.

 The next day I had to travel from Sagada to Batad with local transport which in the end turned out to be a real adventure I left in a Jeepney for the 40 min trip from Sagada to Bontoc. I was seated inside with mostly mothers and toddlers. Some Westerners were seated on the roof which I'm sure has better views but less safe. In Bontoc a mini van was waiting for more passengers so half an hour later we set off for the 1,5hr trip with the most stunning views I've seen so far. The big mountains were covered in a green carpet of trees or rice field terraces. If this was the beginning well then I was in for a treat. When we were almost at our destination Banaue the colour green got more vibrant and the views even better; these were real rice terraces that's for sure. In Banaue I first secured my bus to Manila followed by an investigation what to do next. Other travellers adviced me to go straight to Batad as it has the best views there so I took the last jeepney for the day heading to Batad for some serious hiking. Inside the car between the seats there were 9 bags of rice and two boxes of chicken for a wedding next week in the village. While waiting for the jeepney to leave I started to talk to a lady called Hariet with her lovely baby daughter Louise. She used to be a guide of the area (Batad) and suggested I should walk back to Banaue in 2 days. She would help me to find a guide when in the village. But first we had to get there, the jeepney left and 5 min later it started to rain so covers down to stay dry! We left the main road and soon it turned into an off road adventure. The Camel Throphy could have started here for one of their annual trips, I was pleased to see that the driver knew what he was doing. After 45 min we had to get off in the pouring rain and get ready for a 30 minute decent on foot to Batad. On arrival I could see what everyone was talking about and why you have to come here as the rice fields are shaped in an amphi theatre shape and the village is clustered around it. That evening I had dinner with an amazing view and company of many travellers followed by a massage from Gladys.

Rice terrace in Batad

Locals in Pula

Views near Batad

Day 2; I woke up with the sound of rain which wasn't what I was hoping for. My guide Joseph was already waiting for me when I arrived downstairs. An hour later we set off in the rain heading for the Magadam waterfalls, we walked through rice fields took steep steps to decent down to the river. I was already stunned by the views, vibrant colours of the fields and how big this area was. Here the rice terraces were constructed by humans many years ago and are made from stones and cement. After the waterfall the climbs started as we had to cross two mountains to reach our lunch destination Cambulo. The rain had stopped but I think I was wetter from sweat than what had been coming from the sky. Till we reach the village for lunch I walked on rice field edges and balancing on small steps to climb or go down the mountains. Joseph had given me a stick that morning for support and now I could see the benefit of it. I was ready for a meal when we reached Cambulo to fuel up for the next 3 hrs. Again it was worth it as the views only got better, I made so many pictures but feel it doesn't project the real picture I saw in front of my eyes. At the end of the day, we covered 15 km of this rice field hike when we reached Pula and I was pleased as my legs couldn't face another climb. It was a great day with a good inside of the life of The Philippinos who live here. Joseph and I discussed many issues and I've met some locals too who work hard to earn a couple of meals a day. What I've seen they don't have much and only eat rice and some vegetable as meat isn’t always available in their small village, live in wooden huts with no walls, no running water and electricity but they seem very content and happy. Joseph told me that he doesn't have a bank account, works in the raining season in another part of this area to earn money to support his family of nine kids. He has healing power but doesn't want to use this to make money as he's afraid he will lose the power.

Joseph with his 'betel nut teeth' smile

Batad

Day 3; I've done several hikes and saw lots of country side so far during my trip but these 2 days have been the most challenging for me and of the beaten track as the first 2 hrs we didn't see anyone else. I didn't know what to expect. As for the rice paddies; for me The Philippines have the most beautiful, stunning, groomed, colourful and divers ones I've seen. I am thankful that someone informed me about this country, area and trip as this country is a big surprise for me and feels people have been keeping this as secret from most of us.